tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13564150401907060002024-03-13T17:08:41.280+00:00oinks overambitious terrain project(s)Warhammer 40K Terrain, Tutorials, Reviews, Armies, PaintingUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-64675488619968835892012-11-04T08:52:00.002+00:002012-11-04T08:52:04.391+00:00On Sale - Rare Gamesday Miniatures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've amassed a lot over the years and I really do need to start slimming the collection down! I simply don't have the space (nor willing wife) for a closet of doom the likes of <a href="http://mordian7th.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Mordian</a>! Hopefully the start of some selling will win some brownie points with the other half! (and bring in some funds for more projects... shh... don't tell her!)<br />
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I will be starting this with some rare gamesday miniatures and open them up to the community.<br />
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I've placed these in a thread on Warseer too, which can be used as a platform for trading if people feel more comfortable with that. <br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">All of these are Brand New and still in their original packaging;</span><br />
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">£20</span> - 2002 Gamesday mini - Chaos Champion </li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">£35</span> - 2003 Gamesday mini - Space Wolf Priest </li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">£40</span> - 2004 Gamesday mini - Archaon on Foot </li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">£30</span> - 2005 Gamesday mini - Space Marines Sgt Aurelius </li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">£30</span> - 2008 Gamesday mini - Space Marine Captain </li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">£20</span> - 2009 Gamesday mini - Exalted Chaos Hero </li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;">£20</span> - 2010 Gamesday mini - Chaos Sorcerer </li>
</ul>
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As always, no price is final so be sure to get in touch with your interest. You can contact me using by leaving a comment, through warseer or sending me an e-mail (I think you can see this on my profile page?)<br />
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I'm happy to accept paypal for both our securities, but if you want to discuss other payment methods then note that in your message. I can ship worldwide, and note that these costs may vary depending on miniature and quantity.<br />
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So, if you are looking for some rare models in mint condition then just get in touch... and be sure to share this with anyone you know who may be interested!<br />
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Oh and finally, in case anyone is interested in some painted Minotaurs (of the Fantasy variety) I now have a unit up on e-bay - <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warhammer-Fantasy-Beastmen-Minotaurs-Unit-Pro-Painted-models-x3-/251178185800?pt=UK_Toys_Wargames_RL&hash=item3a7b62f448" target="_blank">here</a>. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-87806140759572295042012-09-03T08:07:00.000+01:002012-12-12T17:24:08.501+00:00Armies - Converting Crypteks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Everyone knows that any good Necron army will make great use of a range of Crypteks. The trouble is that there are simply not enough of a range of suitable Cryptek models and you have to venture into the realms of Finecast for the privilege.</br>
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I wasn't about to go and buy 3 or 4 identical models for a premium so I had a think, and a look around the blogosphere and instead bought a single box of Lychguard. Instantly saving me a fair chunk of cash (which, evidently I went out and spent on some Annihilation Barges... D'oh!)</br>
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The Praetorian back plate was perfect to represent some sort of Necron Cryteck... tech... and so the first thing was to shave off the excess moulding that would allow the Praetorian back cage to fix in place. I didn't want to use that - mostly because it would only get in the way of painting & utterly frustrate me.
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In order to help with future flexibility I decided to magnetise the weapon heads on two of the staff weapons... converting two unique weapon heads in the process. This will allow me to represent a range of different Cryptek staffs depending on the mix and type of Harbingers I decide to field.
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After that work was done, the rest was simple and I got myself 5 Crypteks!!! All out of a single boxed set with parts to spare (I will probably throw the useful bits such as the big shields and swords up on e-bay as I certainly won't be needing them!).
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-42432741990217285972012-08-25T18:56:00.001+01:002012-12-12T17:25:22.940+00:00New Edition, New Army... well sort of...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm alive! And more to the point am going to avoid talking about 6th edition rules! Instead I'm just going to get on with it. I've decided that my stalwart Guard, and stubborn Tau, will be taking a break from gaming and have turned to a new army for the new edition. Necrons. Well, I say new army, the truth is that I've had these models for an age, and have recently decided to get cracking on them, spurred on by some cool new Necron models! Does anyone remember this!?<br />
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The Mega army originally retailed for about £100.00 if memory serves correctly. When I bought it the idea for the army was a simple Warrior Horde... and I managed to acquire a further 20 warriors!<br />
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I don't want to give too much away in terms of my plans for my army... as this will unfold over the following posts. Of course, this will be as sporadic and fleeting as ever - regular visitors will be all to aware of my ability to start new projects. This is not helped that I need to split my time between my own models and completing commission painting for others. Check out the <a href="http://www.ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/">iPaintmodels Blog</a> and <a href="http://www.facebook.com/ipaintmodels">Facebook page</a>! This has been going quite successfully and will probably only increase in load!<br />
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You might be thinking that it won't be that bad, I mean, I am doing Necrons after all. I'm not in the business of making things easy for myself though, if only I had chosen a quick metallic colour scheme... Instead, this is what I'm working with:<br />
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Yup, no metal at all...
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-36429098050613401122012-07-04T17:30:00.001+01:002012-07-04T17:30:49.238+01:00VERY IMPORTANT NEWS: 40K 6th Edition; Starter Box Set Contents<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well 6th edition has landed on our door but that's no reason to stop! I have some more very important news regarding the boxed starter set contents. I think by now we are all under the impression that the set will contain Dark Angels vs Chaos... but the mix of models may well surprise you! Not only this, but it definately says a lot about the up-coming Chaos Army.<br />
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Take a look at these pictures which list out the armies;<br />
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I know, I know... it all looks a bit Japanese! lol, so, lets break it down:<br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">First, the Dark Angels</span><br />
- Captain Balthasar: w/ Power Armour, Power Sword, Combi-Plasma, Frag & Krak grenades <br />
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- Librarian Raphael: w/ Bolt Pistol & Force Weapon<br />
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- Deathwing Squad: Sergeant w/ Storm Bolter & Power Sword, 1 w/ Assault Cannon & Power Fist, 2 w/ Storm Bolter & Power Fist, 1 w/ Storm Bolter & Chainfist<br />
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- Tactical Sqaud: Sergeant w/ Plasma Pistol & Close Combat Weapon and 9 Marines, 1 w/ Plasma Cannon, 1 w/ Plasma Gun, 7 w/ Bolters. All with Bolt Pistol and Frag & Krak grenades <br />
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- Ravenwing Squad: Sergeant w/ Bolt Pistol & Close Combat Weapon, 1 w/ Plasma Gun and 1 regular. All with Bolt Pistol and Frag & Krak grenades <br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">And now the Chaos</span><br />
- Chaos Lord: Power Armour, Power Sword, Plasma Pistol, Frag & Krak grenades <br />
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- "Hellbeast" (Presumably a Dreadnought): Multi Melta and Power Fist <br />
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- Chosen: Sergeant w/ Power Maul, Bolt Pistol & Bolter. 1 w/ lightning claws, 1 w/ a Power Axe, Bolt Pistol & Bolter, 1 w/ a Power Fist, Bolt Pistol & Bolter, 2 w/ Close Combat Weapons, Bolters & Bolt Pistols. All have Power Armour, Frag & Krak grenades <br />
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- Cultist squad 1: Cultist leader w/ two Close Combat Weapons, 9 Cultists, 1 w/ Flamer, 8 w/ Close Combat Weapons & Autopistols <br />
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- Cultist squad 2: Cultist leader w/ Close Combat Weapon & Shotgun, 9 Cultist, 1 w/ Heavy Stubber and 8 w/ Autoguns <br />
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Yes, that's right - cultists! This says a lot for the direction of the new Chaos Codex if you ask me! The unit choices are great really, because there is a litle bit of everything and so makes sense for a set that is supposed to help you learn the wide range of rules! <br />
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Please leave a comment if you have anything to say / discuss about this news!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-56536909169977513032012-06-29T14:00:00.000+01:002012-06-29T23:16:55.594+01:00Armies - Final send off!!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So, as the sun sets on a 5th edition and the forums and blogs erupt in over-excited rage-quitters and nay-sayers I'm staying firmly rooted and doing what we should all be doing - saying goodbye to a game edition that has been part of my life and hobby by entering into a "friendly" tournament!<br />
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A little while ago I made <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/its-for-greater-good.html" target="_blank">THIS POST</a>, saying that you'll be treated to more Tau posting as I concentrated on finally finishing to paint my massive Tau force. Since that time you have had exactly 0 Tau posts! hmm... <a href="http://www.theunrealisticartist.com/2012/06/tau-army-finished.html#comment-form" target="_blank">The Unrealistic Artist</a> as started and finished an entire army in that time! If you are quick, you might be able to buy it too!<br />
<a name='more'></a>Anyway, what this means is that I've decided that fun is the order of the day and I'm taking my Tau army to the Red War 40K Tournament run by the <a href="http://www.redwarsoc.com/" target="_blank">Redditch Wargame Society</a> at <a href="http://www.totalwargamer.co.uk/" target="_blank">TotalWargamer</a>. You can meet one of the tournament organisers over at his <a href="http://embolden40k.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Embolden 40K</a> blog!<br />
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Although I don't normally post Army Lists on the blog this is what I will be subjecting myself to! You will agree that it is both vastly different, but also strangely similar to the army that you may have seen over on <a href="http://fromthefang.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/after-action-thoughts-on-tau-part-one.html" target="_blank">From the Fang</a>. Less in the way of mega suit units, and more in the way of "oddball" choices! I clearly haven't learnt from him, and I would expect some equally harsh comments as I laid out on him!<br />
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HQ<br />
Shas'El @ 87 (plasma/fusion/tracker)<br />
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ELITES <br />
Crisis Team (2) @ 102 (1x fusion/pod/tracker; 1x twin fusion/target lock)<br />
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Crisis Team (2) @ 124 (2x plasma/pod/tracker)<br />
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Stealth Team (8) @ 160 (4x suits + 4x gun drones)<br />
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TROOPS<br />
Fire Warriors (8) @ 175 (rifles/devilfish/tracker/disruption)<br />
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Fire Warriors (8) @ 80<br />
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Kroot (10) @ 70<br />
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Kroot (10) @ 70<br />
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FAST<br />
Pathfinders (4) @ 133 (devilfish/disruption)<br />
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Pathfinders (4) @ 133 (devilfish/disruption)<br />
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Vespid (8) @ 134 <br />
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HEAVY<br />
Broadside Team (2) @ 173 (ASS, 1x team leader/target lock/blacksun filter)<br />
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Broadside Team (2) @ 173 (ASS, 1x team leader/target lock/blacksun filter)<br />
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Hammerhead @ 135 (ion cannon/burst cannons/tracker/disruption/blacksun filter)<br />
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Thats up to a (not so neat) 1749pts.<br />
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<i><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana-Italic; font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana-Italic; font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #666666; font-family: Verdana-Italic; font-size: x-small;"></span></span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana; font-size: x-small;"></span></span></i><br />
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Yes, there are some highly dubious choices in there, such as the Hammerhead outfit, the Stealth Suits and of course the Vespid. This seems to go against much of what is often said on the blogosphere about Tau... so we'll see what I can pull off!! At the end of the day though, I hope to have lots of fun and say goodbye to a dear friend!</div>
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Seeing as I'm here, I suppose I should explain WHY you haven't seen any Tau posts. My painting has been consumed by commissions through <a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">iPaintmodels</a>. You can keep up to date with progress shots and discussions on the facebook page <a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">HERE</a>. Be sure to "like" if you like what you see! (remember you can always hide what pages you like from your friends if you don't want them to know you are a massive nerd! lol!)</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-53420839848974235972012-06-24T09:59:00.001+01:002012-06-24T09:59:07.133+01:00Tutorial - Easy Decals<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Today I have a short post which will hopefully be a big help for people wanting to use decals, otherwise known as transfers. What follows are a few very simple, very easy steps that you can follow in order to make applying decals to your models a hassle free process which brings great results.<br />
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There are a few tricks to it, and without knowing or understanding the steps it can be easy to become disheartened by decals and avoid them altogether.<br />
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Tools;</div>
<ul>
<li>Scalpel blade.</li>
<li>Tweezers.</li>
<li>Paint brush.</li>
<li>Cotton Bud (aka Q-tip).</li>
<li>Gloss varnish (in a pot).</li>
<li>A small, shallow container (you can use the plastic part of a blister pack for example!) </li>
<li>And of course, your decals!<br />
</li>
</ul>
<div style="color: #b45f06;">
The Prep.</div>
Prepping your model couldn't really be easier. All you need to do is apply a solid coat of gloss varnish to the area you want to apply the decal. I tend to apply it to the entire panel / section. The reason for this is that the gloss coat will allow you to shift the transfer about, so you will be given more freedom when it comes to placement.<br />
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Once dry, you can crack on with the following easy steps;<br />
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<div style="color: #b45f06;">
1. First thing's first... stick the kettle on!</div>
<span style="color: #b45f06;">2.</span> Once you've made your brew, pour some warm water into your shallow container. It will be very hot so whilst you wait for it to cool a bit you can prepare your transfer. Use your scalpel blade to cut the chosen decal from the sheet. The trick is to try and leave additional space on at least one side so that you will be able to hold it with the tweezers!<br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">3.</span> Taking your tweezers, pick up the transfer and submerge it into the water. Do not let go. Just hold it and watch it closely, you will see the decal start to lift from the backing paper, by making soft movements with your hand you will see once the decal has freed completely... catch it with the backing paper if it tries to escape!<br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">4.</span> Take the decal to your model, and using a moist brush transfer the decal from the backing paper to the glossed panel. It is important to ensure the brush is slightly moist because otherwise it might pull up the water. The water is what will keep the decal from sticking too soon. Use your moist brush, to position your decal.<br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">5.</span> Once your decal is in place, take your cotton bud (Q-Tip) and push the centre of the decal. This will push out the water from underneath. Then carefuly and softly rub down the decal to pull out all of the water and ensure that the edges are all neatly fixed. Be sure to dry the area completely with the cotton bud.<br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">6.</span> With the area dried off, take your gloss varnish and re-apply it over the decal area and model panel again. This will help seal the decal onto the model and prevent it from rubbing off etc. You can then apply your chosen varnish over the entire model and people will be none the wiser. I use Matt Varnish (from Army Painter) and it works a treat!<br />
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Now, this is just a very simple way to apply decals to your model, it is perfectly reasonable and acceptable for "simple" applications. What I mean by this is for applying decals to simple surfaces such as tank armour plates, flat surfaces or ones which might be curved in one direction only. Once you start looking at more complex situations, such as shoulder pads that are curved in more than one direction you will want to use some additionl products. These products help by literally dissolving the decal paper, transfering
the ink directly to your model. As such, they allow you to not only
conceal the decal but apply it to folds, creases and across panels etc.<br />
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Rather than covering this ground again, head over to <a href="http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/7-things-to-remember-when-using-decals.html" target="_blank">From The Warp</a> for Ron's "7 things to remember" as well as a number of similarly great tutorials on applying (and even creating) your decals! For more info on the products you might need (MicroSet and MicroSol) head over to <a href="http://pitoftheoni.blogspot.co.uk/2008/08/decals-getting-that-painted-on-look.html" target="_blank">THIS</a> post from the Pit of Oni. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-972818695970205762012-06-16T10:08:00.002+01:002012-06-16T21:10:19.887+01:00Review - "Instant Mold" Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In my last post I talked a bit about the product "Instant Mold". This post will cover some of the results of that initial investigation. With the pattern (aka mould) already made I grabbed and mixed some green stuff, I'm sure you could use any modelling putty.<br />
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It is a simple case of filling the pattern and, because this was a two part mould, pushing the two parts together. There is a great benefit to the "Instant Mold" being clear now, because you can see where the green stuff has, or has not filled the detail. In the images above you can see that a solid green colour indicates full detail, whilst clear air bubbles help point to places that either need more pressure or more greenstuff!<br />
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I then left the house for the day, and on my return pulled apart the two part pattern to reveal the new green stuff cast. Although the green stuff was "sticky" it did not actually STICK to the "Instant Mold", but it was clear that the putty was not properly cured. This is probably partly to do with the fact that it doesn't get air to help it along, but also just due to the sheer bulk of the component (I'mmuch more used to working with smaller quantities for fine details.<br />
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Here is the end result of my first test. As you can see, it needs a lot of cleaning up and there are some holes that will need filling too. But whilst that was going on I threw another batch of green stuff into the pattern to cure.<br />
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At first glance the results look great. But there are limitations,
particularly on a part like this hammer head. The most troublesome thing
I found in my initial casts was that despite bending the "Instant Mold"
to help me line up the halves more easily, they just did not always
meet properly... this resulted in hammer heads which were wider at the
top than they should have been, as well as a double-moulded shaft head. I
had to bin more than I could save!<br />
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Still, undeterred I set about trying a different component.<br />
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I was surprised to find that the Grey Knight Psycannons came out MUCH better! I was able to make two extra Psycannons out of Green Stuff which were pretty good matches and importantly, meant that I didn't have to head to a bits supplier who would have charged me well over the odds for them! Again, there was a slight issue with some fine detail but for the most part they look the part quite convincingly. <br />
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In summary, I think there is a great dealof mileage for using "Instant Mold" to create additional components. My initial experiments showed that it is a bit trickier than you might first think, but this is probably because I jumped in at the deep end to create a 2-part pattern. A simple press mould would be much easier but has limits on what can be created. Of course, there is always the option to create two (or more) separate press moulds and then glue the separate components together!<br />
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However, if this has taught me one thing... (other than I needed to buy more fresh green stuff) it is that you don't have to be limited by what you have...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-72799762669217782822012-06-12T23:56:00.003+01:002012-06-12T23:56:42.304+01:00VERY IMPORTANT NEWS - 40K 6th Edition; June 30th 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I interrupt this broadcast to bring an announcement that you are probably all aware of anyway. I have just received confirmation that the 6th Edition of Warhammer 40,000 will be released on June 30th 2012.<br />
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This is earlier than I was expecting it (even with the pre-order teaser currently on the GW site).<br />
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I'm not here to bring you rumours of the actual rules... there are much better blogs to visit for that such as<a href="http://www.belloflostsouls.net/" target="_blank"> Bell of Lost Souls</a>, <a href="http://blog.spikeybits.com/" target="_blank">Spikey Bits</a>, <a href="http://www.thehogsofwar.com/" target="_blank">Hogs of War</a> or everyones favourite (though still absent from my blog roll for some reason) <a href="http://natfka.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Faiet212.</a> Besides, I'm only interested in hard facts.<br />
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Also, as and when you get sick of reading about 6th Edition Rumours, be sure to head over to my commisison painting blog<a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank"> iPaintmodels</a> to catch up with my most recently finished commission work. Over the coming weeks I will be posting picks of a lovely Malifaux Colette Gang commission that will likely get drowned out by people having kittens about the new 40K rules! To whet some appetite, see below:<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-61659040844562792942012-06-02T10:52:00.000+01:002012-06-16T21:09:53.529+01:00Review - "Instant Mold" Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Welcome back oink-fans. Here is the first in a two part review of the "Instant-Mold" product. Instant Mold (correctly spelt as Mould - but I'm willing to forgive on this occassion) is basically a material that allows you to make a "pattern" from which you are able to cast well, pretty much anything - really the only restriction I can see would be the size. This product is very different from traditional moulding which often uses rubber moulds and resin or plaster for casting. However, each casting type has it's place depending on what it is you want, in what material and in what quantity.<br />
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For excellent examples and tutorials on different casting techniques then head over to see Rictus at <a href="http://recalcitrantdaze.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Recalcitrant Daze</a> (with everything from Resin Casting to 3D Printing!) or <a href="http://uniteallaction.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Casting%20Resin" target="_blank">Unite All Action</a> which has a great tutorial series on Resin Casting.<br />
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Instant Mold will allow you to replicate small parts and details to add to your army. This is particularly useful if say, you want all your guys to have one type of helm, weapon or shoulder pad. As such, this is particularly useful if you need to make multiples of something you have sculpted - such as a shoulder pad with chapter symbol - as it will allow you to sculpt once, and copy many. Rather than needing to sculpt over and over!<br />
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So, lets take a closer look at the product;<br />
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The packaging is simple, but, from a packaging design point of view pretty annoying. Why, well, you can't stack them easily because they have a frustrating and unnecessary curve!? However, what they DO have going for them is that it opens without even needing scissors or a knife.<br />
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Each pack gets you 6 Instant Mold sticks, each being about 15mm W x 7mm D
and 58mm Long. They are pliable, almost rubbery, but pretty much
impossible to tear by hand! However, even when hard they can be cut
fairly easily using a sharp blade. <br />
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The packaging also includes instructions on the back, although these are in American (in that they say add water at 170degrees - which in American means Fahrenheit and not Celsuis). What does this actually mean? well - in the great British tradition - it's time to stick the kettle on!<br />
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Yep, that's it. Pop a stick of Instant Mold into a small bowl and then add some hot water from the kettle. After about 3 minutes it becomes very soft and malleable. It has a similar consistency to Green Stuff except that unlike Green Stuff, Instant Mold pretty much doesn't seem to stick to anything - except more hot Instant Mold!?<br />
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So, I grabbed a part that I wanted to replicate and pushed this firmly into a small amount of Instant Mold, pressing hard and from different directions to ensure that the stuff formed closely. Being clear is great because you can actually see the detail and if you need to apply more pressure! Once the Instant Mold has cooled it holds it's shape perfectly even whilst being flexible enough to pull your original out and not damaging either. In this way you can great very quick press moulds - potentially of some very intricate and complicated shapes.<br />
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As you can see though, I wanted to create a simple two part mould, so I grabbed another small section of Instant Mold, heated it and then pushed it over the part so that it was completely encased. I wrapped the edges over the first pattern which would help me to line the two halves up when it came to casting. Once colled, I could peel away both parts and be left with an apparently perfect two part pattern.<br />
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Importantly, hot Instant Mold does not stick to cold Instant Mold!<br />
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Join me next time where I'll be using the two part mould to create a duplicate part.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-62265881681140126412012-05-28T16:16:00.000+01:002012-06-16T21:11:17.367+01:00NEWS! GW UK Price Change list 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In a break from normal proceedings I bring you a link to a PDF courtesy of Wayland Games here in the UK which has a full list of the UK price changes to Games Workshop prodcuts. I can't speak to how these exchange up in foreign... but I don't expect it to be pretty.<br />
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<a href="http://www.waylandgames.co.uk/images/newsletter/gw2012pricerise.pdf" target="_blank">Follow the White Rabbit</a><br />
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To be honest and fair, I think that many of the prices are still pretty reasonable. But this price rise won't be remembered for those products, it will be remembered for the +60% rise on the modular movement trays, or the +30% rise on the most popular battle forces (Space Marines included!)<br />
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Modular Trays: £6.15 > £10.00!<br />
Space Marine Battleforce: £60 > £80!!!<br />
Stormraven: £41 > £50!!!<br />
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There are some real shockers.<br />
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You'll also see rises to the brushes and some other tools which, whilst relatively reasonable in and of themselves, now represent a final price which is far in excess of other similar products available in the market. There is little reason to buy these from your Games Workshop now.<br />
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Aside from those points though, many of the other products are still relatively "reasonably" priced... for Games Workshop at least.<br />
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I want to know what YOU think about the price changes though... please leave a comment.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-74451927196740633232012-05-27T02:30:00.000+01:002012-05-27T02:30:00.274+01:00Storing Your Models<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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Anyone who's been around this blog for a while will know that I've got far too many Imperial Guard (mostly unpainted I must add!) So, when Mrs Oink declared that it all needs to get tidied away I had to come up with a plan to store it all away in as few cases as possible and in as logical an order as possible (if I am ever to have a chance of remembering exactly where everything is!) </div>
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I love a good amount of planning... which is why I'm forever grateful to <a href="http://admiraldrax.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Admiral Drax</a> for the <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/p/painting-charts.html" target="_blank">Painting Chart</a>! It also means this will be a long post!</div>
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I already had a pair of the large Games Workshop Army Cases. Both special editions in fitting camo green and desert variants. Each case is double the size of a regular "single" GW case. In actuality it is also marginally deeper, and I'll get to this later. When bought, each case came with one side of infantry trays and the other having a single, deep "pick & pluck" tray.</div>
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After a lot of deliberation, I decided to put most of my tanks into one box, and most of the infantry into the other one. Lets start by taking a look at my "infantry" case;</div>
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The newer desert case came with infantry foam that is 10 models wide, as opposed to the usual 9 models wide. This is key because platoon infantry squads are 10 strong, which means they can fit one unit per row!</div>
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This forms a basis of the infantry storage - <br />
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Each of my platoons happens to be 3 units strong, so I now store one platoon per tray! The remaining 10 spots of each tray are taken up by an assigned heavy weapons team and the veterans forming the platoon command squad (these weapons can also be re-assigned to platoon units if necessary). In this way, my three platoons fit entirely within one half of one case!<br />
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On the other side of the same infantry case you can see the trays
pictured above. One tray stores my three veteran squads (designated 1st
platoon in my <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/p/painting-charts.html" target="_blank">Painting Chart</a>)
as well as a squad of squeezed in Ogryns! Another tray stores the
command figures, including all of the Lieutenants, HQ characters and
Command Platoon chappies. You can also see the "specials" of a <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/armies-battle-psyker-squad.html" target="_blank">Psyker Battle Squad</a> and some Ratlings. </div>
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Finally, in a slight break from the rest of the infantry, the base layer stores my infantry support vehicles. It is simply an infantry tray with the foam cut away to form 6 equal compartments. You can see I can store my <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/armies-hades-breached.html" target="_blank">Hades</a>, converted <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/gallery-command-this.html" target="_blank">Salamander Jeep</a>, <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/gallery-scout-trucks.html" target="_blank">Scout Trucks</a>, Hellhounds and <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/armies-hydras-on-target.html" target="_blank">Hydra Tanks</a>! This tray is very useful because I can fit almost any combination of tanks into it so I can mix and match when I need to put together an army list for transportation. (It can even hold Russes as long as I remove the turret first).<br />
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The tank case has had an equal (if not greater) amount of consideration. It stores the remaining Chimera chassis tanks. 7 tanks to each pick and pluck... yes, 7! I do this by storing the tanks on their sides rather than their tracks, and carefully sizing each slot. Above the tanks are more heavy weapons teams, including the lascannoners, a plethora of mortar teams and a few special weapons teams which can all be assigned to platoons on an ad-hoc approach.</div>
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Easy right!? Well, er, no, I also have a pair of Valkyries, and you're probably wondering where the Russ tanks are at?<br />
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It took me a while, but I found <a href="http://www.krmulticase.com/trays.aspx?type=L&showsets=Y&system=WH40K&army=IG#Imperial%20Guard%20Set%20B" target="_blank">THESE</a> cases from <a href="http://www.krmulticase.com/default.aspx" target="_blank">KR Multicase</a> which were exactly what I needed! KR do a couple of valkyrie storage cases, but each of these ones hold one valk AND 4 tanks! well thats perfect because my Russes are all organised into set platoons of 3 tanks, with the additional slot taken up by one of the Command or Tank Ace vehicles!<br />
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Perhaps the best bit about these little gems though, is that they also hold 20 infantry models. Well, it turns out I've got 40 Storm Trooper models (used as Grenadiers, or Engineers, or sometimes just as Veterans to fly around in the Valkyries). It couldn't be much more perfect if it tried!</div>
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To help me remember where everything was, I also wrote out a little plan, and I ended up adding it to an updated <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/p/painting-charts.html" target="_blank">Painting Chart</a>. </div>
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Everything into 4 cases.<br />
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Well, nearly everything. The trouble is I still have a Vulture Gunship as well as a battery of 3 Basilisks to store... hmm... Looks like I might need to look at buying another case from <a href="http://www.krmulticase.com/default.aspx" target="_blank">KR Multicase</a>! </div>
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Things to think about when planning your storage;</div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">1. The quantity & type of your models.</span> </div>
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You need to make sure that you know exactly what you have so that you know what storage system(s) will be suitable. Remember that your models may (or may need to) be dismantlable - such as removable valkyrie wings or tank turrets - and this can ease storage and transportation.</div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">2. The bulk & dimensions of your models.</span></div>
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You should consider all dimensions to find out the best storage solution. For instance, by me storing Chimeras on their sides I was able to fit more tanks into each pick & pluck tank tray.</div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">3. The organisation of units or "blocks".</span></div>
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You want to try to organise storage in a logical manner, keeping units together to make things easier.</div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">4. Remembering where things are.</span></div>
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One of the points of all this thought is so that you actually know where all your models are. When they are split across a variety of cases it is usually helpful to write what is where. You can then use this as a quick reference. You may even find it useful to stick this to the inside of each case lid.</div>
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Well, that's a lot of work just to keep your models! What have I learnt? Well, that the Games Workshop storage cases are actually pretty good. But also that there are alternative sources that you can use to get exact and specific storage requirements. <a href="http://www.krmulticase.com/default.aspx" target="_blank">KR Multicase</a> in particular, offer a simple and cheap cardboard case - which is absolutely perfect for models being stored in a cupboard... They also do GW sized foam trays so you can always transfer the foam into a harder wearing case for transport!</div>
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<br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-18364086828830004582012-05-21T03:00:00.000+01:002012-05-21T03:00:01.479+01:00Blood Bowl Pitch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well, just a shortie from me at the minute, I've just received some models for a cool commission I'll be working on, but that almost pales in comparisson to the fact that blood bowl is very much back on my radar thanks in no small part to a friend putting together a very nice looking Orc team (even if the thrower is a one eyed special seemingly incapable of picking up the ball! hah!)<br />
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This board was more than simple to make... An appropriately sized
timber board had tile spacers glued on to mark out the squares. The
whole thing was then coated in Artex, which had sand thrown over it
before it was completely dry (thereby saving on PVA!). A few details
were pushed into the Artex and the whole thing was painted (with a very
big brush).<br />
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Following this, copious amounts of static
grass was used to liven the thing up and finally the touch down, centre
line and wide zones were marked out by painting the tile spacers!<br />
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It took about half a day if you ignore the drying times. Well worth it to be able to stomp friends poor blood bowl teams on!<br />
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That'll teach the wife for wanting me to do some tiling... not quite what she had in mind!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-38325249166406382942012-04-28T02:30:00.000+01:002012-05-07T16:51:41.752+01:00The ones we forget!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x-MWuEE23Fw/T5XaZzeIUrI/AAAAAAAAAVg/onCLEcyzoUQ/s1600/SMport.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x-MWuEE23Fw/T5XaZzeIUrI/AAAAAAAAAVg/onCLEcyzoUQ/s320/SMport.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Space Marines! I found these guys in my loft the other day whilst looking for some Epic models that I was thinking of selling off. The funny thing is that these guys are clearly old and I have very little recollection of painting them! Early in my modelling "career" I would often dip into the Catachan box for head swaps and was not worried about cutting up marines to create unique poses!<br />
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The bag they were sitting in meant that I needed to do a fair bit of fixing up, and I had to lose one or two in order to salvage the rest. I organised them into suitable units, realising that these three units could make a pretty good start of the Blood Angel Codex being one jump assault squad with a plasma pistol, an assault unit on foot with a meltagun and a not quite full strength tactical squad!<br />
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Its interesting looking back at old models and seeing how and where I have improved my painting! Its also interesting because some things haven't changed all that much, namely my love for lots of little conversions and additions to help make models unique.<br />
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<a href="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/models/Space%20Marines/CIMG0200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/models/Space%20Marines/CIMG0200.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can see just by looking through the painted stuff here in my <a href="http://www.oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/p/gallery.html" target="_blank">Gallery</a>, or over on my <a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/p/gallery.html" target="_blank">ipaintmodels</a> commission blog that the things I produce now are much nicer than these, although these certainly aren't terrible and would make a great starting force for someone and have a some room to grow into a little army with the addition of a personal HQ and a few vehicles, such as a razorback for the tactical squad and then some heavier tanks or somesuch!<br />
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Ultimately though, I've got absolutely no use for these guys. With that in mind, I'll be selling this lot. I'll probably stick them on e-bay in a short while, but if anyone wants to make me an offer before then, please let me know that you're interested! You can comment here, or post in the thread that I've started on <a href="http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?339933-Space-Marine-%28BA%29-painted-troops-40k-army-start" target="_blank">Warseer</a>. <br />
Finally, let me know if you've stumbled across old models of yours and what you've thought about your progress since you painted them!!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-22118488616480455442012-04-25T02:30:00.000+01:002012-04-25T02:30:00.376+01:00Review - Halford's Grey Primer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kqCub-A54sM/T5ZJVKpKDKI/AAAAAAAAAVo/_94BWntlecc/s1600/CIMG0242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kqCub-A54sM/T5ZJVKpKDKI/AAAAAAAAAVo/_94BWntlecc/s320/CIMG0242.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
Following building the<a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/review-mantic-zombies.html" target="_blank"> unit of zombies</a> I looked to a way of painting them, the solution is something for my UK readers (though can be bore in mind by others that priming options may be available in unlikely places). I had formulated a scheme where I could use a grey primer and build up grey tones from there. I read that Halford's do a grey coloured that should be suitable on plastic models.<br />
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Here is the review of that!<br />
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The shop in town had two types of primer, a <a href="http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_203947_langId_-1_categoryId_165495#tab1" target="_blank">"plastic grey primer"</a> and simply <a href="http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_158666_langId_-1_categoryId_165495" target="_blank">"grey primer"</a>. I went with the grey primer as pictured above. The first thing you'll see is the cap is finished to represent what you get. This is a nice matt finish, if the cap is to be believed then the "plastic grey primer" appears to give a glossy plastic-like finish which is why I opted against it. (This may, or may not be true!)<br />
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The large 500ml can cost me a penny under £7.50. That is a whole £2 less than the black or white spray cans from Games Workshop (which, by the way, only contain 400ml) and is cheaper still than the Army Painter Uniform Grey (which on RRP is usually about £10 for 400ml!). It's worth bearing in mind that you can use a hobby supplier to get your GW or AP sprays which can save you between 15-20% off of the RRP. You may have to factor in postage, but even so, the large can from Halfords still offers the best value for money. Note that the "plastic grey primer" from Halfords costs £6.50 but is a smaller 300ml can. It might be worth looking at testing that to see the difference (if any).<br />
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Whichever way you cut it, and even if you get 20% off of the mentioned alternatives, the Halfords Grey Primer is still the best value being both cheaper and larger.<br />
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I used the body part tokens made from the left over zombies parts to test the spray. The reason for this is because some spray paints (particularly car spray formulas) will have a tendancy to melt plastic! This primer, did not... and I was then able to spray all 30 zombies.<br />
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Even though they pretty much look the same as before they were sprayed, trust me when I say that they have received a coat with great coverage. The spray has a reasonably narrow and thus controllable spray cone and covers nice and thinly and evenly. As you can see, the colour is a very mid tone grey so it will be easy enough to lighten or darken with the following layers of paint.<br />
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Having started painting the zombies I can also say that the primer does a terrific job of providing a suitable painting surface... just as you would expect it should do! I'll post better quality pics of these chaps when they're done... for now you'll have to settle for these!<br />
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Overall, I was pretty pleased with the results of the spray. It didn't ruin the detail by going on too thick, it was easy to control and left a nice even surface to paint over.<br />
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The verdict? I'll be heading to my local Halfords for my model priming needs!<br />
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You can read more about Primer options from <a href="http://miniaturetim.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/once-again-comment-in-recent-article-of.html" target="_blank">Miniature Tim.</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-15312297808061397092012-04-21T09:05:00.001+01:002012-04-25T09:50:32.658+01:00Review - Mantic Zombies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've just finished putting together some zombies from Mantic for a commission and I felt that I really needed to post a review. The reason being that I was very impressed with them for a number of reasons! I'll be comparing them to the GW zombies because they are the ones most people will be familiar with...<br />
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The Look.<br />
Its surprising that the GW zombies have stood the test of time as well as they have done (and to be honest, thats not that well!). However the zombies from mantic are in another league. Yeah, there may be more than a decade between the two but the mantic zombies have a finer detail and ooze character (no pun intended!). You can see from the pictures that they have nice skinny arms and are overall generally very well proportioned!<br />
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The Quality.<br />
The first thing I noticed when unboxing the critters were the sheer quantity of sprues. This is mostly because mantic only do 3 zombies to a sprue! However, looking closer I was surprised to realise the casting quality... barely a mould line in sight! To add to that they managed to get fine and detailed fingers to a much better quality than the GW zombies! <br />
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The Build.<br />
The mantic zombies come in small sprues with simple components. This does mean that you won't find lots of extras like you do with the GW kit, but you do get quick to build models that have a surprising array of flexibility & poseability. Don't get me wrong, they are a little more restrictive than the GW zombies, but a little bit of forethought can gain you some of this back. I built all 30 in about an hour and you can see that they can all look unique. This means that you can build a big horde of zombies in very little time! More to the point, somehow they all seem to rank up quite easily and in lots of combinations!?!?<br />
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I even had pieces to make these body part markers... Not sure what they are yet, but they could be used as pain tokens... although I don't have a Dakr Eldar army... but still!<br />
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The Cost.<br />
Finally this is where mantic have the big win. Mantic are prepared to give you more models for less money than GW. Not just that, they are great looking, top quality and easy to build models for les money, and that's just the basic kit. Mantic cater for the larger army by offering a "zombie horde" set with 60 zombies in which will save you about £25 if you'd bought that number from GW!! (that is enough to buy another 30 from mantic and still have spare change... and for only a few pounds more mantic will give you another 60 zombies!!)<br />
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The Verdict.<br />
Mantic 1 vs 0 GW<br />
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The downsides of the mantic zombies are the general lack of extra bits and the fact they are not quite as flexible as the GW ones which are built using more components.<br />
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Other than that, Mantic offer top notch quality and great looking models for an unbeatable price. Its not just great value... it's a real bargain. I would not hesitate to recommend mantic zombies (especially over GW ones) to anyone.<br />
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Once these guys are painted, I'll share the pics. If you want to commission me then you can head over to <a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/">ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk</a><br />
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Be sure to comment if you agree (or disagree) with the Review and tell me your experiences with zombies.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-83069754551662639602012-04-14T12:18:00.000+01:002012-04-20T22:27:28.808+01:00Minotaurs! (no the other kind)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a name='more'></a>And now for something completely different.<br />
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Take a look at this Minotaur unit, tell me what you think!?! They are currently for sale on ebay and could be yours! Just go <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251040718928?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649" target="_blank">HERE</a><br />
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Also of note this week is that you can now find <a href="http://www.ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">ipaintmodels</a> (my commission painting service) also on facebook at <a href="http://www.facebook.com/ipaintmodels" target="_blank">facebook.com/ipaintmodels</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-45243953133015145642012-04-07T02:30:00.000+01:002012-04-07T02:30:00.376+01:00Magnetising Krull<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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You may remember Krull from the last post. Well, this post will cover some of the steps I had to take to magnetise him!<br />
<a name='more'></a>Magnetising is actually a pretty simple process, and at it's most basic you only really need a few items. The magnets, and an appropriately sized drill bit. I've used 3mm magnets for regular 40k things (such as a Vendetta conversion) but given the size & bulk of Krull I bought some 6mm ones. (Also, they brought a Flames of War order up to free postage level and helped me get the third edition rulebook for free!) When they arrived it turned out they were closer to 5mm, so I pulled out the necessary bit from my DiY cupboard.<br />
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Magnetising flat surfaces is probably the easiest. Simply drill the hole. Don't go deeper than the depth of your magnet. Remember that the drill bit comes to a point, so the hole will look deeper than it is. Then, fill the hole with glue and slide the magnet into place.<br />
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The principle is exactly the same for the second magnet on the adjoining part. The difficult part, is making sure that the two magnets will line up as perfectly as possible. You magnetise because you want to play with the kit and transport it easily... but it will look awful if the visible sections of the model are mis-aligned... and you won't be able to hide any joins with modelling putty! However, you can still use that putty to help you create a guide so that your magnets WILL line up.<br />
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Place a small amount of putty onto the side that needs drilling. Wet the side with the magnet (to stop it sticking) and then marry the two up. Because the putty is soft you can move the parts to ensure that they line up externally. Separate the parts and you will then be able to use the marking as a guide. Later, you can remove the putty, or, depending on the pieces, you may keep it in place to help provide a flusher fit between parts.<br />
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I done exactly the same with the wings;<br />
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Simple! ... Well... yes, and no. It turned out that the larger magnets, whilst great for holding the weight of the beefy arms, were not quite strong enough to fight against gravity when it came to those massive, highly detailed wings!!
Come back next time to see what I've done to try and improve the situation... and one way you can overcome another issue that comes with magnetising...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-87872042494589395492012-03-26T02:00:00.000+01:002012-03-26T02:00:02.785+01:00Krull - Who Needs Paint!?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Everyone seems to be talking about the new GW paints. This post is going to be something completely different! If you are bored of reading about paint then you definately won't find any of it here! No, instead you'll find a WiP commission of 'Krull, The Servile Lord of Dis'.<br />
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I have no idea who Krull, or Dis, are but this kit from <a href="http://banelegions.maelstromgames.co.uk/?tag=bnb-019" target="_blank">BaneLegions</a> is mammoth! A full resin kit big on scale and big on detail. The skin is chocked full of hair detail, the armour has fine battle damage. This chap has even got man-bubbles dangling behind that loin cloth! (I'll spare you the close up unless it's a particular request!)<br />
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This WiP build has invovled cleaning up of parts and magnetising the arms and the wings. The arms were pretty straightforward, but the wings are still causing me some headaches so I'll need a bit more work to ensure they are not losing a battle with Gravity. I also snapped some pics during the magnetising process, so hopefully I'll be able to put up a tutorial on how to magnetise and some key tips and tricks.<br />
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Until then I hope you enjoy these fuzzy images. Painting won't be started on this guy for a while, but once it is complete you'll be able to find pictures over on<a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank"> iPaintmodels</a>. If you're lucky, you may find some more WiP shots... but I've got another few other commissions to cram in before then.<br />
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Next month, I will mostly be painting... ZOMBIES! (yeah, so much for <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/its-for-greater-good.html" target="_blank">this</a> post!!!)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-10485207547845769992012-03-13T11:19:00.003+00:002012-03-13T11:19:55.834+00:00NEWS! - The BBC<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In a break from "normal" content, this News! post is actually actual news! hah! Who'd have thought it! The BBC has recently covered 40K in a number of online articles, partly in celebration of the 25th anniversary of 40K and partly because GW are one of a very limited stock of UK companies reporting massive pre-tax profits! <br />
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Don't be shocked by the titles!<br />
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<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-17274186" target="_blank">Why are grown men still launching tabletop war?</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-17344366" target="_blank">Why Warhammer 40,000 is still popular after 25 years</a><br />
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Pretty fairly written as you'd expect from the BBC, but for laughs, do make sure you read through the comments. There are some real gems in there!!!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-48859355848504548142012-03-10T10:00:00.000+00:002012-03-10T10:00:00.405+00:00It's for the Greater Good...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've done it again... I've gone and got myself hooked on another classic piece of my hobby pie. This time it's down to a game I had against a "regular" opponent where I cracked out my Tau as a last minute "OMG I haven't sorted an army!" sort of thing. The Tau have always been my go-to, but have sat in their case(s) for a long while now.<br />
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I got quickly frustrated at just how unfinished the whole lot were. I mean, they could pass for finished, but there were lots of finer details that I had wanted to add but just never got around to them. (oh, and all the actually unfinished models too!)<br />
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So, I made a painting chart.<br />
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It doesn't look good, but I've been very harsh on myself. It includes units that can be considered finished, but that I know deep in my heart of hearts, just aren't!<br />
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As regular viewers may, or may not be aware, the Painting Chart was brought to my attention by (as far as I know) it's public creator <a href="http://admiraldrax.blogspot.com/2012/03/302-drax-presentsthe-painting-chart.html" target="_blank">Admiral Drax</a>. It is an invaluable tool in helping you to visually track the progress on your army. You can see my last Imperial Guard Painting Chart on my <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/p/painting-charts.html" target="_blank">Painting Chart Page</a>. This one will be ending up there too.<br />
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To show you just how harsh I have been on myself in the chart above... below is a picture of one unit of XV15 Stealth Suits which has been considered "in progress". <br />
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To be fair, these chaps only need the most minor of detailing and tidying up... but you can see more pictures of this unit (and it's twin) on my <a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">ipaintmodels blog</a>.<br />
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What does this mean for you... well... expect more Tau.<br />
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Oh, in case you're wondering... my Tau beat the alien Eldar scum in that game! They may not be the best around, the fastest, hardest hitting or most survivable... but they sure are fun!!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-62434487167932264202012-03-03T02:30:00.000+00:002012-03-10T17:57:29.147+00:00Working with Foamboard - Joining Basics - Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In the first part of the <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/2011/12/working-with-foamboard-joining-basics.html">Joining Foamboard </a>series I talked a bit about how to make strong and sturdy junctions between two pieces. These were simple connections because the boards used easy to cut flat ends & laps. In this Part 2 I am going to look at some slightly more advanced Mitred connections. Rest easy that these are still relatively basic junctions to achieve (made easier with the right tools and know how!)<br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;">The Mitre</span><br />
Although the <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/2011/12/working-with-foamboard-joining-basics.html" target="_blank">Rabbet and Channel</a> connections shown previously are much easier to make, the simple Mitre Junction is one of the neatest and, if you use an angled foam cutter then is very easy to put together! It also couldn't be easier to explain, all you have to do is take two foamboard pieces with 45* bevels and glue them at a 90* angle!<br />
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Use PVA glue as normal, but you can also add some hot glue along the inner corner (or the outside corner if this will be the one that won't be visible in the end. That's it! Simple to explain, difficult to get right! You can see in image 2 above that the junction is concealed at the edge, providing a much neater finish. If you are doing freehand bevelled cuts, then you have to make sure that the cuts are smooth and accurate.<br />
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I would generally recommend using an angled foamboard cutting tool to get a perfect cut. The result will be a junction with minimal visible edging... the junction gap between the two pieces will be mostly concealed on the corner, and means that you won't have to do as much (if any) tidying up to make it look nice!<br />
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The Invisible Junction</div>
The great thing about creating mitres, and learning how to cut angles is that you can put all of this together and create an invisible junction! To create this, mark a line to represent where the outside of the corner will be. Then measure the thicknes of your material, to each side of this line. So, if using 5mm foamboard, you will end up with a line either side of this corner mark, 5mm away in both cases. The pictures below are actually slightly wrong, because you should end up with a small channel at the bottom, this helps give space to bend the card in the following step. It is a simple case of cutting with your blade at an angle to create a "V" shaped cut out.<br />
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<a href="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/Terrain/Foamboard%20Tutorials/bend1-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/Terrain/Foamboard%20Tutorials/bend1-2.jpg" width="640" /></a>Again, there are special tools that you can use for this, and I'd recommend thinking about getting one if you are looking to do work using this technique. It takes all the hassle out as you can make both cuts at the same time with a single pass!<br />
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The one key thing is that you SHOULD NOT cut through the last piece of card (though if you do, then you can simply join the two pieces using glue). This card will be on the bottom when making your cuts, but will form the outside corner of the junction. Why? Because in the next step all you do is bend the single piece at the "V" so that they form a 90* angle. The resulting outside edge will show no visible sign of connection, as the card will be bent as opposed to cut and glued creating an Invisible Junction!!! Note that you can achieve this look for different angles too.<br />
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As a final tip for this type of junction, augment it with Hot Glue if necessary at the inner corner as the added strength will help counter the bent card wanting to straighten out.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-57351367500421965602012-02-29T02:30:00.000+00:002012-02-29T02:30:01.676+00:00Photography!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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So I think I sorted out my photography! I was able to spend some time playing around with my set up, both the fold away light box and my camera. It's taken a long time to work out where I was going wrong and what I needed to do in order to improve the final quality. Not necessarily an issue for my blog here, which tends to have lots of WiP stuff anyway, but definately key for my <a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">ipaintmodels blog</a> where I want to showcase my painting capabilities!<br />
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My images were varied in their quality, and although they were grabbing a fair bit of detail, they were very "fuzzy"...<br />
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I spent a long while reading and searching for information, including,<a href="http://miniaturetim.blogspot.com/2011/07/tools-of-trade-miniature-photography.html" target="_blank"> Miniature Tim</a>, <a href="http://marsekayspainting.blogspot.com/2012/01/diy-lightbox-tutorial.html" target="_blank">Marsekay's Painting Blog</a>, Iain from <a href="http://www.antipwn.com/paint/" target="_blank">Stormy Teacups</a>, <a href="http://aguardsmansguidetoglory.blogspot.com/2012/02/photographing-your-minis-essentials.html" target="_blank">GunGrave</a> and last but no means least <a href="http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2010/10/photographing-your-minis.html" target="_blank">From The Warp Big List of Really Useful Stuff</a>!!! I found the right spot for my light box, ignored my previous desire for natural light and set the camera on a highly adjustable tripod. I even set the pictures to timer in order to avoid any vibration caused by me pushing the button!<br />
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The result is easy to see... the pictures are crisp, clear, detailed... everything you would want or need them to be! I only have to do some minor post-photo editing to brighten up the backgrounds now! So, thank you to all those who have posted about photographing your miniatures!<br />
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These pictures are snippets of future posts on my<a href="http://ipaintmodels.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"> iPaintmodels</a> blog. If you want to see more, then be sure to follow updates from there (I've got these and more ready to post!) For the rest of you, I'll be back at the weekend for the next installment of <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/p/details.html" target="_blank">Working With Foamboard</a>.<br />
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If people want to know more about exactly what I do now, or the set up that I use then leave a comment and if there's enough interest I'll expand upon it in a future post.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-22790723506773258812012-02-22T02:30:00.000+00:002012-02-22T07:51:24.632+00:00Working with Foamboard - Cutting Mitres<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U7zyUfQF1yQ/TuzFo24SxLI/AAAAAAAAAR0/o5GW99b0tt8/s1600/CIMG9756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U7zyUfQF1yQ/TuzFo24SxLI/AAAAAAAAAR0/o5GW99b0tt8/s320/CIMG9756.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
In the <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/2011/12/working-with-foamboard-basics.html" target="_blank">Foamboard Basics</a> I covered how to mark and make straight cuts in foamboard, and I also showed you some <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/2011/12/working-with-foamboard-joining-basics.html" target="_blank">example methods for joining these pieces</a>. This is great for when you want to connect two pieces at right angles to each other. However, there may be times when you want to connect two sections of foamboard at an angle, or, for whatever reason, create a bevelled edge. In those cases, you will need to know how to cut at an angle.<br />
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Cutting at an angle can be absurdly tricky, but there are a number of things you can do to help makes things a bit easier for yourself.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><span style="color: #b45f06;">Mitres & Bevels</span><br />
A 45* Bevelled angle is useful because one will allow you to make 45* junctions, whilst two will allow you to make very neat 90* junctions (A Mitre Junction)! In order to cut a 45* angle you should start by marking a line as far in from the edge as the thickness of your Foamboard. So, in my case (using 5mm Foamboard) I would measure and mark a line 5mm in from the edge.<br />
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You can then take your blade and carefully make a straight cut through the top layer of card. This really only needs a good scoring. The next cut will be made with your blade held at an angle... the tip of your blade sits on the edge of the lower piece of card, the blade itself intersects the scored top layer of card so that in profile the blade is tracing a 45* line across the Foamboard.<br />
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Making the cut is the difficult bit because it requires a slow, steady, but confident cut. Depending on your knifes design, you should be able to still use a ruler to help guide your cut and stop veering off course! If you can, do so as it makes things much easier!<br />
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You can use this technique to cut at pretty much any angle by adjusting where you mark the line in from the edge. A line further from the edge will give a shallower bevel, a line closer will give a steeper one. Use a bit of simple trigonometry if you want to work out exact angles.<br />
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The Trouble with Freehand Mitres</div>
The problem with trying to cut mitres "freehand" is that they are not normally "clean"... you wouldn't want to have them visible if you could avoid it! Additionally, minor imperfections in the cut can result in less than accurate junctions. Most times, your bevelled cut will be concealed in a junction, and you can get away with filling in any gaps (such as with Liquid Green Stuff!). But if your cut will be exposed you may want it to look much smoother and neater. As a result, most people would prefer to use a special 45* Mitre Cutting Tool. There are a range of these available, including ones which cut a double Mitre, sometimes called "V" Cutting Tools. I'll cover this in more detail in the future.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356415040190706000.post-91969255520875214142012-02-14T02:30:00.000+00:002012-02-14T02:30:00.659+00:00Build a Revenant Titan - Done!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/revenant%20titan%20build/final%20images/lowleftrearcopy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" sda="true" src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/revenant%20titan%20build/final%20images/lowleftrearcopy.jpg" width="216" /></a> </div>
Final construction pictures as promised... <br />
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I hope you've enjoyed watching this thing come together. You will be able to catch up with this build at any time using the <a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/p/details.html" target="_blank">Tutorial Page</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VaBSEnxZsps/TzWlK0vTmzI/AAAAAAAAAUE/oL4Evy_hal4/s1600/Part9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VaBSEnxZsps/TzWlK0vTmzI/AAAAAAAAAUE/oL4Evy_hal4/s320/Part9.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<a href="http://oinksterrain.blogspot.com/2012/02/build-revenant-titan-part-8.html" target="_blank">Last time</a> around I put a little disclaimer to warn you that this post might not be pretty. It definately doesn't start off that way. With the gusto that would be the envy of many a freestyle disco dancer I managed to knock the Titan fresh off its feet and watched in horror as the towering beast toppled over. Heart in mouth, and head in hands, I done what any good modeller in my position would've... put down my beer and began to assess the damage.</div>
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Yep, that worrysome knee joint went! It had always had a degree of wobble to it. Funny enough, the ankle joint was in perfect condition, no doubt a result of the multiple interlocking pins! There was a small knick in one of the hip shields and one of the pulsars snapped. Luckily it was a clean break. <br />
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<a href="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/revenant%20titan%20build/base/base1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" sda="true" src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/revenant%20titan%20build/base/base1.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/revenant%20titan%20build/base/base4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b29/oink-pics/revenant%20titan%20build/base/base4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
After receiving due medical attention, I decided that a degree of improvements was in order. With an eye towards increasing the portability of the model as well as its stability I removed the pin from the right knee joint and replaced it with a longer one... which now runs right the way through the knee and into the lower leg! <br />
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I decided again that not glueing this new pin in place would mean that I could take the Titan off of its base which would help storage and transport no end! Getting the base away from the model also meant that I was able to make a start with adding some modelling interest to it. I wanted to keep things simple - the Titan is the main focus, not the base! <br />
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These final tweaks meant that the Titan was now built and ready to get a lick of paint!!! I'll be posting one final time giving you lots of final built pictures (taken just before the base was modelled). Later this year I will probably post painting pictures but I'm eager to work on other projects before then!!!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5