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Friday 20 January 2012

Build a Revenant Titan - Part 4

Welcome back, today I will be going over how I put together the critical right ankle. Mordian7th commented last time about whether I was using a pin through the ankle to the base and the answer is "Not exactly!". You can catch up with the previous parts by using the updated Tutorial Page. The right ankle would have to support the entire model once finished and so needed to be sturdy. I wasn't happy with the idea of a visible pin, so decided that I'd work on making a strong ankle to avoid that. That meant twin pins.



Anyone who has tried their hand at pinning might know that getting one pin in position is easy enough, but getting two pins would require the drilled holes to run exactly parallel to each other! Not a simple task considering the curvature of the areas I was dealing with.

However, curvature was not the only problem... if you take a look at the foot images you will see that the ankle joint has a channel running along it, meaning that I would have to locate the pins so they would steer clear of any awkward corner part of this (remember that the ankle would be driven at an angle to the lower leg to give a sideways lean). I'd also need to avoid the existing pin that runs through the bottom of the foot as seen HERE. Regardless, I felt that the added security of a second pin would be what I needed.
The first thing I done was to grab a bit more white tac and use it to bring the two parts together. What this achieved was to leave a mould of the channel running along the ankle ball joint. this would help me ensure I could steer clear of the corners and any trouble whilst drilling the holes.


After some time debating the best positions of the pins I finally started drilling the holes without removing the white tac which was acting as my guide. To help twin drill holes parallel you can usually use some sort of guide on the model, but the nice curves here mean that you really have to work by eye.

With the white tac removed, the pins were glued into position. These pins were then used to mark the points on the ball joint so I knew where to drill their partner holes. Drilling into the ball was the tricky bit as the holes were not entering at a right angle but after a bit of correctional work early on with the holes, I got them as close to parallel as I could without much collateral damage and at an angle I was pretty happy with! 

2 comments:

  1. Nice - the two pin method you used is quite clever, I'll have to bear that in mind next time I have a big honkin' whatzit to pin together. Looks like it's coming along nicely, great series so far!

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  2. It's really difficult to make sure the pins line up properly... It'd be easier if pinning two flat surfaces, but the best tip I can give you (other than the white tac marking technique) is to be very aware of the angle you are drilling at.

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